Everything Old Is New Again

Since we're moving from paper to internet, Pad and I thought we'd introduce our new caretakers and add some of the information included in our previous newsletters.
The recommendations, are now right here on our website. We are still working on this website, so come back soon and see what else is new!

New Caretakers Taking Great Care

       We are delighted to introduce you to our new caretakers, Martine and Jerome Maret. Many of you know this elegant couple as the owners of Le Maison aux Volets Bleus, or The House of the Blue Shutters, which is just up the street from our apartments.
Martine and Jerome are former Parisians who settled in Venasque over 30 years ago.

    Their first venture in the village was Les Ramparts, where Martine was the original chef. They sold the restaurant years ago to become innkeepers.
     The night we dined chez Volets Bleus, we were shown to a round table on the inn's outdoor terrace, which offered a panoramic view of Mt. Ventoux. The Marets have their own house wine, a local Cotes du Ventoux, which perfectly complemented our duck confit and tasty asparagus soup.
     The meal finished with a superb cherry clafouti, a masterpiece made with dark, sweet cherries plucked from local trees. Such a meal is not to be missed, and is more than reasonable, at 30 euros per meal. Better yet, you feel a part of this very close knit and happy family.
      The Marets manage several properties in the village, including ours. This is wonderful for many reasons: they have at their disposal a professional cleaning staff, we get to send all our linens out with their linen service, and-best of all-they are only a short walk away should you have any problems with the apartments.
     Martine is a superb cook and while she only does meals on weekends, and only for her guests, she has offered to invite our renters to join her on nights that she has an open table. We urge you to take advantage of this generous offer.

On the Riviera: the Calanques of Cassis

     A view of the Mediterranean is a great temptation for anyone who visits the south of France. Venasque is a mere two-hour journey to the seaside village of Cassis. Should you have only one day to spend on the Riviera, we recommend you spend it here.
     The main attraction of Cassis, other than the charm of its tiny streets, is access to the calanques, mini-fjiords that line the coastline from Marseilles to Cassis. Whereas much of the Riviera is overbuilt and modern, the shoreline here is pristine, mainly because it's sheer, rocky and inaccessible.
     The best way to see the calanques is by boat. Parked along the quay of the Cassis marina, there must be at least a dozen boats that carry tourists to these narrow grottos of turquoise blue water. The boats vary in size from about 30 feet to over 70 feet (small ferries) and leave the harbor every 30 minutes or so. The cost is dependent on the number of calanques you want to visit: 3, 5, or more. (Five calanques costs about 12 Euro.) But the most impressive calanque is further from the port, so buying more stops is probably your best bet. Some of the boats will drop you off at tiny beaches and pick you up on a return trip. If you take one of these, bring lunch, or at least something to drink.
     An added suggestion from recent renters Tom and Andréa St. Clair: rent sea kayaks to visit the Calanques. There are several outfitters on the quayside, and if you're sporty, this route gives you the freedom to explore sans company.
     Two caveats: parking is difficult and in summer, the crush of French sun worshippers can be overwhelming. Don't visit on a weekend and never leave anything in your car. You might think about taking the train from Avignon to Cassis (change at Marseilles). This would eliminate car worries and some rather tiresome driving, placing you in the center of Cassis with no hassle. In fact, consider staying overnight, which will allow a leisurely dinner and some casual sightseeing on the way back to Venasque.

Pont du Gard:
A Daytrip Avec Bathing Suits

     Just across the Rhone River, not far from Avignon, is the world's greatest Roman aqueduct. The Pont du Gard was built shortly before the Christian era to ferry water from Nîmes across the river Gard. The Roman architects and hydraulic engineers, who designed this bridge on three levels, created a technical as well as an artistic masterpiece that inspires to this day.
     When we visited one hot, summer afternoon, we wisely carried bathing suits along with a picnic lunch of bread and cheese. Lucky us. After walking across the bridge, we joined the French families picnicing on to riverbank below. Like them, we dipped into the cool waters of the River Gard between bites from a fresh baguette.

     We all have our secret yearnings. For years, mine was for a decent set of forks, knives and spoons. We had our nice china for dinner parties, our collection of Provencal linens, but we were still pulling out the everyday stainless steel to set the table.
After years of travel to Venasque, I'd also acquired a passion for European-sized silver. The silver-plated cutlery that graces the tables of most good restaurants in France is larger than our own. The forks have heft, the knives are beautifully balanced; the soup spoons are elegant, larger than ours, and can also be used for dessert.
     One of the best places to buy antique French silver is at the Isle sur La Sorgue market on Sunday mornings. Visit after visit, I would pass tables sparkling with silver cutlery. I would often stop to examine a particularly nice pattern but I wouldn't buy. Call it shyness or fear of fumbling with my French. I was also looking for a complete set and often what I saw on market tables were pieces of a pattern. There would be time to add extras once my collection was launched. But to start, I needed all the basics.
     I was still not convinced I would get my best deals at the antique stalls that are set up outside Isle sur La Sorgue's Sunday market. These are too tourist-focused, with sellers out to make a quick buck off pass-through vacationers looking for souvenirs. I wanted a shop specializing in silver and someone who would help me with my quest. In all my visits to the Sunday market I had never found such a place. But I knew there must be one.
    Then, fate smiled on me one winter day. For the first time, we decided to park at the Isle sur La Sorgue railroad station. Walking from the parking lot to the stalls, I saw before me a window filled with silver, a shop with tables of beautifully polished cutlery shining in the outdoor sunlight.      The shop, called "Le Savoir de Marie," had dozens of sets of antique cutlery and the owner- Marie, I suspect - was a delight. She spoke no English but was charming, helpful, and eager to understand my imperfect French. She took time with me, understood my price limits, encouraged me to browse. Having helped me choose two patterns I was interested in, Marie then laid out two table settings, complete with plates and linens, so I could ponder my options.

     I decided on a simple set with a particularly lovely soup spoon. It came complete with a dozen each of dinner forks, knives, soup and dessert spoons. I could have added smaller, demitasse spoons, but it wasn't our practice to serve espresso in the States.
     The cost ? About $600, a great bargain compared to U.S. prices. I also spent $125 for a storage box, a wise choice as I would have never found the right-sized box in the States. Pad and I were so delighted with our purchase that we wondered if Marie could find us some smaller, dessert/salad forks to go with the set. She said she could, but it would take several weeks to locate them. Since we were planning to return to Venasque in June, she agreed to have them for us when we arrived. She did. Twelve forks for $120.
     The boutique "Le Savoir de Marie," is at 8, bis bd. Julien Guigue. It's open Friday and Monday from 3-6 p.m., on Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Just look for the signs to the train station (Gare SNCF) and you'll find it. Telephone 04-90-38-64-40. Tell Marie you're renting the Spence's house in Venasque. And say hello for me.

Weekly Markets
	Monday Bédoin/ St DidierTuesday Gordes/Sault, Vaison la Romaine Wednesday Arles Thursday OrangeFriday CarpentrasSaturday Apt Sunday Isle sur la Sorgue

To Market, to Market      Whenever possible, you should shop at one of the many open air food markets that are the essene of the Provençal experience. Our favorites are the large markets at Carpentras on Fridays and Isle sur la Sorgue on Sundays. For smaller markets, we particularly enjoy Bedoin on Mondays. And the largest market in the area in Avignon is open every day, but Saturday and Sunday are the best.
     Don't worry if you French is limited or non-existent; the sellers are great at sign language. Do try the many varieties of cheeses you'll find in the markets, especially the local chèvres. You can also buy many varieties of tapenades as well as cold-pressed olive oil by the gallon jug. The larger markets are also a good source of Provençal linens, either by the yard or made up into tablecloths and napkins.
     As one of our tenants remarked: "The Carpentras marked is the largest in the area after Avignon, but somehow remains intimate, perhaps because parts are held in the narrow winding streets of the old city. What can you buy? Anything from portable generators to lace and paella."

     Our routine at the Isle sur la Sorgue market is to begin with a grand crème or café au lait at Café de France in the middle of town opposite the church. Across from the café we make our first purchase--a half kilo of Provençal olives with loads of garlic and pimento. Then we pick up a bidon of Les Eysserides rosé of red table wine, an especially good buy if there are many of us and the wine is going too fast to permit more expensive alternatives. Michel Aguillon offers his selection next to the church and the cost for the bidon--the equivalent of five bottles--is anywhere from 48F to 84F.
     Our last purchase before heading home for lunch is Cantonese rice and a rotisserie-cooked chicken from a Vietnamese family (be sure to get lots of gravy with the chicken).     And do make an early visit to LeClerc, the mega-supermarket in Carpentras. As you drive the circuit around the centre ville, follow signs toward Avignon, turning to your right. Approximately a quarter of a mile later, you will see a relatively small sign announcing LeClerc and indicating a small street to your left. Proceed down that street and you will see LeClerc on you right. We always stock up on essentials like cereals, spaghetti, or toilet paper. It's also the place for everything from flashlight batteries to clothes to film.

     At LeClerc you can buy wonderful cheeses and patés, good wines at good prices. The meat and fish are also excellent and you can buy a warm baguette any time of day.

     Venasque's boulangerie has all the essential treats, from croissants and pain au chocolat to small squares of pizza and sausages wrapped in pastry. And best of all are the warm baguette and tarte aux fruits for breakfast. The little alimentation in Venasque is fine for afterthoughts: lemons, sliced ham, a quart of milk, items you have forgotten. It's a bit more expensive than the supermarkets, but it's nice to support the local stores, and you can always find bread here when the boulangerie is closed.
     For the occasional purchase of groceries, the neighboring village of St. Didier is excellent--two greengrocers, a good butcher, and two bakeries. Our own boulangerie is wonderful but closed on Mondays.

Our Favorite Cheeses
                             Provence is a cheese lover's paradise. In all seasons, one can discover the complexity of flavors that come with a good selection of French cheeses. Of course, this region specializes in chevre, goat cheese, in countless varieties. Shoppers may be overwhelmed by the choices, but the man behind the counter may be your best teacher.
     In nearby St. Didier, where there is a small market on Mondays (when the shops in Venasque are closed), we met a charming cheesemonger who parks his van in the central square. Loquacious and friendly, he was only too eager to educate us. (This, by the way, is the pleasure of tiny markets like St. Didier; there are few tourists and especially off-season, sellers have time to chat.)
     With goat cheese, as with all cheeses, the younger the cheese, the milder the flavor. Fresh, white cheeses aged for only a day have the consistency of cream cheese and an equally soft flavor. Those aged for two or three days are semi-fresh and creamy, which is how we prefer them. Those with a darker rind are older cheeses and therefore stronger-flavored.
     Here is a list of the simply perfect cheeses we selected on our visit to St. Didier, plus the names of others that always please: St. Felicien du Cremier: a rich and creamy cow's milk cheese
     Perail: goat cheese that melts like Camembert, Roquefort: the familiar blue-veined cheese, but entirely different when cut from the wheel rather than packed in supermarket plastic. Spread on a pear, it's heaven. Banon: wrapped "a la feuille," in chestnut leaves, this goat cheese is easy to spot in the markets. Better when slightly aged and springy to the touch. Pouligny-Saint-Pierre: Nicknamed "the pyramid," this is another easy-to-spot cheese, with its triangular shape and slightly blue rind. The goat cheese is fine-textured, white, and crumbly.

Diary: A Day Among the Trufflehunters of Grignan      Whenever we visit Venasque, we pick a new town or region to explore. Our guests have a tendency to travel south to the busy Riviera or west to Peter Mayle's now-fabled Luberon. But try heading north instead, into the Drome, a lush and expansive region about an hour's drive from Venasque.      There, you'll find the very pretty, medieval village of Grignan, once home to the Comte de Provence, where his elegantly restored and grand chateau dominates this walled, hilltop town. Over the centuries exterior fortifications were transformed into huge terraces that look out over rolling countryside. Even before you take a tour of the castle, a stroll through the courtyard will transport you to the days when carriages arrived from nearby Avignon, or even Paris.      Grignan is famous for its connection to Mmd. De. Sevigne, a 17th century aristocrat whose beautiful daughter was married to the Comte de Provence. From her home in Paris, Mmd. De Sevigne would write frequently to her daughter of life at the court of Louix XIV and her letters still sparkle with the goings on of the day. The Comte was a wealthy man, who thought nothing of having 30 musicians play for dinner. The castle, restored by its English owner c.1930, reflects that very elegance and is well worth a tour.       So are the neighboring streets of the village, charming with shops that sell pottery, linens, and fine foods. Should you care for tea afterwards, there's a lovely hotel at the base of the village, near the fountain. But we were aiming for larger treats. One advantage to a fall visit to Grignan is that, starting in mid-November, truffle season arrives. Le Relais de Grignan: Phone: 04-75-46-57-22 www.lerelaisdegrignan.com Corinne and Serge Aurel, Truffle hunters Phone: 04-75-04-46-54-18. Or you can make a date through the Relais de Grignan.

     What if you run into a heat wave? How do you keep cool in a land with precious little air conditioning?
     This past summer, some of our guests were confronted with that challenge, as they faced a record-breaking season of heat. Fortunately, an old stone building, like Chez Kubik, is your best defense against high temperatures.
     Chez Kubik's brightly painted shutters are more than merely decorative. Used properly, they can catch and store cool air with great efficiency. When it's hot, rise as early as possible in the morning, and fling open every door and window to admit what cool air the early morning provides. Then, as the sun begins to climb, close and fasten the shutters on every window and switch off the lights. But don't close the windows behind the shutters - you need currents of air to move in the darkness of the house. We've provided fans for every room, which keeps the air circulating.
     It helps having stone walls that are three feet thick, of course. On a particularly hot day, the French do their errands early, then retreat indoors to their shuttered, darkened homes to wait out the heat. When cooling breezes come with the evening, you can open the shutters, and head to our upstairs terrace, for sunset drinks and tapenade.